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- Home Vegetable Gardening - 5/33 -


Bean, dwarf May 5-Aug 15 2 2-4 in. 1-1/2-2 ft. Kohlrabi[4] April-July 1/2 - 1 6-12 in. 1-1/2-2 ft. Lettuce[4] April-August 1/2 1 ft. 1-1-1/2 ft. Peas, smooth April 1-Aug 1 2-3 2-4 in. 3 ft. Peas, wrinkled April 10-July 15 2-3 2-4 in. 3-4 ft. Radish April 1-Sept 1 1/2 2-3 in. 1 ft. Spinach April-Sept 15 1 3-5 in. 18 in. Turnip April-Sept 1/2-1 4-6 in. 15 in.

III. CROPS TO BE FOLLOWED BY OTHERS

Beet, early April-June 2 3-4 in. 15 in. Broccoli, early[4] April 1/2-1 1-1/2 ft. 2 ft. Borecole[4] April 1/2-1 2 ft. 2-1/2 ft. Brussels sprouts[4] April 1/2-1 1-1/2 ft. 2 ft. Cabbage, early[4] April 1/2-1 1-1/2 ft. 2 ft. Carrot April 1/2-1 2-3 in. 15 in. Cauliflower[4] April 1/2-1 1-1/2 ft. 2 ft. Com, early May 10-20 2 3 ft. 3-4 ft. Onion sets April-May 15 1-2 2-4 in. 15 in. Peas April 1-May 1 2 2-4 in. 3 ft. Crops in Sec. II.

IV. CROPS THAT MAY FOLLOW OTHERS

Beet, late July-August 2 3-4 in. 15 in. Borecole May-June[2] 1/2-1 2 ft. 2-1/2 ft. Broccoli May-June[2] 1/2-1 2 ft. 2-1/2 ft. Brussels sprouts May-June[2] 1/2-1 1-1/2 ft. 2-1/2 ft. Cabbage late May-June[2] 1/2-1 2-1/2 ft. 2-1/2 ft. Cauliflower May-June[2] 1/2-1 2 ft. 2-1/2 ft. Celery, seed April 1/2 1-2 in. 1 ft. Celery, plant July 1-Aug 1 .. 6 in. 3-4 ft. Endive[4] April-August 1/2 1 ft. 1 ft. Peas, late May 15-Aug 1 2-3 2-4 in. 4 ft. Crops in Sec. II.

II. CROPS FOR SUCCESSION PLANTINGS

------------------+---------+------------------------------------------ |SEED FOR | | 50 FT. | VEGETABLE | ROW | VARIETIES ------------------+---------+------------------------------------------ Bean, dwarf | 1 pt. | Red Valentine Burpee's Greenpod, | | Improved Refugee, Brittle Wax, | | Rust-proof Golden Wax, Burpee's | | White Wax Kohlrabi | 1/4 oz | White Vienna Lettuce | 50 | Mignonette, Grand Rapids, May King, | | Big Boston, New York, Deacon, Cos, | | Paris White Peas, smooth | 1 pt | American Wonder Peas, wrinkled | 1 pt | Gradus, Boston Unrivaled, Quite Content Radish | 1/2 oz. | Rapid Red, Crimson Globe, Chinese Spinach | 1/2 oz. | Swiss Chard Beet, Long Season, Victoria Turnip | 1/3 oz. | White Milan, Petrowski, Golden Ball

III. CROPS TO BE FOLLOWED BY OTHERS

Beet, early | 1 oz. | Edmund's Early, Early Model Broccoli, early | 35 | Early White French Borecole | 25 | Dwarf Scotch Curled Brussels sprouts | 35 | Dalkeith, Danish Prize Cabbage, early | 35 | Wakefield, Glory of Enkhuisen, | | Early Summer, Succession, Savoy Carrot | 1/2 oz. | Golden Ball, Early Scarlet Horn Cauliflower | 35 | Burpee's Best Early, Snowball, Sea-foam | | Dry Weather Corn, early | 1/3 pt. | Golden Bantam, Peep o' Day, Cory Onion sets | 2 pt. | Peas | 1 pt. |

Crops in Sec. II.

IV. CROPS THAT MAY FOLLOW OTHERS

Beet, late | 1 oz. | Crimson Globe Borecole | 25 | Dwarf Scotch Curled Broccoli | 25 | Early White French Brussels sprouts | 35 | Dalkeith, Danish Prize Cabbage, late | 25 | Succession, Danish Ballhead Drumhead Cauliflower | 25 | As above [Savoy, Mammoth Rock (red)] Celery, seed | 1 oz. | White Plume, Golden Self-blanching, | | Winter Queen Celery, plant | 100 | White Plume, Golden Self-blanching, | | Winter Queen Endive | 1/2 oz. | Broad-Leaved Batavian, Giant Fringed Peas, late | 1 pt. | Gradus

Crops in Sec. II.

REFERENCE NOTES FROM THE TABLES

1 In the vicinity of New York City. Each 100 miles north or south will make a difference of 5 to 7 days later or earlier.

2 This is for sowing the seed. It will take three to six weeks before plants are ready. Hence the advantage of using the seed-bed. For instance, you can start your late cabbage about June 15th, to follow the first crop of peas, which should be cleared off by the 10th of July.

3 Distances given are those at which the growing _plants_ should stand, after thinning. Seed in drills should be sown several times as thick.

4 Best started in seed-bed, and afterward transplanted; but may be sown when wanted and afterward thinned to the best plants.

CHAPTER V

IMPLEMENTS AND THEIR USES

It may seem to the reader that it is all very well to make a garden with a pencil, but that the work of transferring it to the soil must be quite another problem and one entailing so much work that he will leave it to the professional market gardener. He possibly pictures to himself some bent-kneed and stoop-shouldered man with the hoe, and decides that after all there is too much work in the garden game. What a revelation would be in store for him if he could witness one day's operations in a modern market garden! Very likely indeed not a hoe would be seen during the entire visit. Modern implements, within less than a generation, have revolutionized gardening.

This is true of the small garden as certainly as of the large one: in fact, in proportion I am not sure but that it is more so--because of the second wonderful thing about modern garden tools, that is, the low prices at which they can be bought, considering the enormous percentage of labor saved in accomplishing results. There is nothing in the way of expense to prevent even the most modest gardener acquiring, during a few years, by the judicious expenditure of but a few dollars annually, a very complete outfit of tools that will handsomely repay their cost.

While some garden tools have been improved and developed out of all resemblance to their original forms, others have changed little in generations, and in probability will remain ever with us. There is a thing or two to say about even the simplest of them, however,-- especially to anyone not familiar with their uses.

There are tools for use in every phase of horticultural operations; for preparing the ground, for planting the seed, for cultivation, for protecting crops from insects and disease, and for harvesting.

First of all comes the ancient and honorable spade, which, for small garden plots, borders, beds, etc., must still be relied upon for the initial operation in gardening--breaking up the soil. There are several types, but any will answer the purpose. In buying a spade look out for two things: see that it is well strapped up the handle in front and back, and that it hangs well. In spading up ground, especially soil that is turfy or hard, the work may be made easier by taking a strip not quite twice as wide as the spade, and making diagonal cuts so that one vertical edge of the spade at each thrust cuts clean out to where the soil has already been dug. The wide-tined spading-fork is frequently used instead of the spade, as it is lighter and can be more advantageously used to break up lumps and level off surfaces. In most soils it will do this work as well, if not better, than the spade and has the further good quality of being serviceable as a fork too, thus combining two tools in one. It should be more generally known and used. With the ordinary fork, used for handling manure and gathering up trash, weeds, etc., every gardener is familiar. The type with oval, slightly up-curved tines, five or six in number, and a D handle, is the most convenient and comfortable for garden use.

For areas large enough for a horse to turn around in, use a plow. There are many good makes. The swivel type has the advantage of turning all the furrows one way, and is the best for small plots and sloping ground. It should turn a clean, deep furrow. In deep soil that has long been cultivated, plowing should, with few exceptions, be down at least to the subsoil; and if the soil is shallow it will be advisable to turn up a little of the subsoil, at each plowing--not more than an inch--in order that the soil may gradually be deepened. In plowing sod it will be well to have the plow fitted with a coulter, which turns a miniature furrow ahead of the plowshare, thus covering under all sods and grass and getting them out of the way of harrows and other tools to be used later. In plowing under tall-growing green manures, like rye, a heavy chain is hung from the evener to the handle, thus pulling the crop down into the furrow so that it will all be covered under. Where drainage is poor it will be well to break up the subsoil with a subsoil plow, which follows in the wake of the regular plow but does not lift the subsoil to the surface.

TOOLS FOR PREPARING THE SEED-BED

The spade or spading-fork will be followed by the hoe, or hook, and the iron rake; and the plow by one or more of the various types of harrow. The best type of hoe for use after the spade is the wide, deep-bladed type. In most soils, however, this work may be done more expeditiously


Home Vegetable Gardening - 5/33

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