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- Himalayan Journals V2. - 1/94 -


Scanned by Derek Thompson drthom@ihug.co.nz

HIMALAYAN JOURNALS or NOTES OF A NATURALIST

IN BENGAL, THE SIKKIM AND NEPAL HIMALAYAS, THE KHASIA MOUNTAINS, etc.

JOSEPH DALTON HOOKER, M.D., R.N., F.R.S.

Volume II

First published 1854

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Arrangements for second journey into Sikkim -- Opposition of Dewan -- Lassoo Kajee -- Tendong -- Legend of flood -- Lama of Silok-foke -- Namtchi -- Tchebu Lama -- Top of Tendong -- Gigantic oak -- Plants -- Teesta valley -- Commencement of rains -- Bhomsong -- Ascent to Lathiang -- View -- Bad road -- Orchids -- Gorh -- Opposition of Lama -- Arrival of Meepo -- Cross Teesta -- Difficulties of travelling -- Lepchas swimming -- Moxa for sprains -- Singtam -- Grandeur of view of Kinchinjunga -- Wild men -- Singtam Soubah -- Landslips -- Bees' nests and honey-seekers -- Leeches, etc. -- Chakoong -- Vegetation -- Gravel terraces -- Unpleasant effects of wormwood -- Choongtam, scenery and vegetation of -- Inhabitants -- Tibetan salute -- Lamas -- Difficulty of procuring food -- Contrast of vegetation of inner and outer Himalaya -- Rhododendrons -- Yew -- _Abies Brunoniana_ -- Venomous snakes -- Hornets and other insects -- Choongtam temple -- Pictures of Lhassa -- Minerals -- Scenery.

CHAPTER XIX.

Routes from Choongtam to Tibet frontier -- Choice of that by the Lachen river -- Arrival of supplies -- Departure -- Features of the valley -- Eatable _Polygonum_ -- Tumlong -- Cross Taktoong river -- Pines, larches, and other trees -- Chateng pool -- Water-plants and insects -- Tukcham mountain -- Lamteng village -- Inhabitants -- Alpine monkey -- Botany of temperate Himalaya -- European and American fauna -- Japanese and Malayan genera -- Superstitious objections to shooting -- Customs of people -- Rain -- Run short of provisions -- Altered position of Tibet frontier -- Zemu Samdong -- Imposition -- Vegetation -- Uses of pines -- Ascent to Thlonok river -- Balanophora wood for making cups -- Snow-beds -- Eatable mushrooms and _Smilacina_ -- Asarabacca -- View of Kinchinjunga -- Arum-roots, preparation of for food -- Liklo mountain -- Behaviour of my party -- Bridge constructed over Zemu -- Cross river -- Alarm of my party -- Camp on Zemu river.

CHAPTER XX.

Camp on Zemu river -- Scenery -- Falling rocks -- Tukcham mountain -- Height of glaciers -- Botany -- Gigantic rhubarb -- Insects -- Storm -- Temperature of rivers -- Behaviour of Lachen Phipun -- Hostile conduct of Bhoteeas -- View from mountains above camp -- Descend to Zemu Samdong -- Vegetation -- Letters from Dorjiling -- Arrival of Singtam Soubah -- Presents from Rajah -- Parties collecting arum-roots -- Insects -- Ascend Lachen river -- Thakya-zong -- Tallum Samdong village -- Cottages -- Mountains -- Plants -- Entomology -- Weather -- Halo -- Diseases -- Conduct of Singtam Soubah -- His character and illness -- Agrees to take me to Kongra Lama -- Tungu -- Appearance of country -- Houses -- Poisoning by aram-roots -- Yaks and calves -- Tibet ponies -- Journey to Kongra Lama -- Tibetan tents -- Butter, curds, and churns -- Hospitality -- Kinchinjhow and Chomiomo -- Magnificent scenery -- Reach Kongra Lama pass.

CHAPTER XXI.

Top of Kongra Lama -- Tibet frontier -- Elevation -- View -- Vegetation -- Descent to Tungu -- Tungu-choo -- Ponies -- Kinchinjhow and Chango-khang mountains -- Palung plains -- Tibetans -- Dogs -- Dingcham province of Tibet -- Inhabitants -- Dresses -- Women's ornaments -- Blackening faces -- Coral -- Tents -- Elevation of Palung -- Lama -- Shawl-wool goats -- Shearing -- Siberian plants -- Height of glaciers, and perpetual snow -- Geology -- Plants, and wild animals -- Marmots -- Insects -- Birds -- Choongtam Lama -- Religious exercises -- Tibetan hospitality -- _Delphinium_ -- Perpetual snow -- Temperature at Tungu -- Return to Tallum Samdong -- To Lamteng -- Houses -- Fall of barometer -- Cicadas -- Lime deposits -- Landslips -- Arrival at Choongtam -- Cobra -- Rageu -- Heat of climate -- Velocity and volume of rivers measured -- Leave for Lachoong valley -- Keadom -- General features of valley -- Lachoong village -- Tunkra mountain -- Moraines -- Cultivation -- Lachoong Phipun -- Lama ceremonies beside a sick-bed.

CHAPTER XXII.

Leave Lachoong for Tunkra pass -- Moraines and their vegetation -- Pines of great dimensions -- Wild currants -- Glaciers -- Summit of pass -- Elevation -- Views -- Plants -- Winds -- Choombi district -- Lacheepia rock -- Extreme cold -- Kinchinjunga -- Himalayan grouse -- Meteorological observations -- Return to Lachoong -- Oaks -- Ascend to Yeumtong -- Flats and debacles -- Buried pine-trunks -- Perpetual snow -- Hot springs -- Behaviour of Singtam Soubah -- Leave for Momay Samdong -- Upper limit of trees -- Distribution of plants -- Glacial terraces, etc. -- Forked Donkia -- Moutonneed rocks -- Ascent to Donkia pass -- Vegetation -- Scenery -- Lakes -- Tibet -- Bhomtso -- Arun river -- Kiang-lah mountains -- Yaru-Tsampu river -- Appearance of Tibet -- Kambajong -- Jigatzi -- Kinchinjhow, and Kinchinjunga -- Chola range -- Deceptive appearance of distant landscape -- Perpetual snow -- Granite -- Temperatures -- Pulses -- Plants -- Tripe de roche -- Return to Momay -- Dogs and yaks -- Birds -- Insects -- Quadrupeds -- Hot springs -- Marmots -- Kinchinjhow glacier.

CHAPTER XXIII.

Donkia glaciers -- Moraines -- Dome of ice -- Honey-combed surface -- Rocks of Donkia -- Metamorphic action of granite veins -- Accident to instruments -- Sebolah pass -- Bees and May-flies -- View -- Temperature -- Pulses of party -- Lamas and travellers at Momay -- Weather and climate -- Dr. Campbell leaves Dorjiling for Sikkim -- Leave Momay -- Yeumtong -- Lachoong -- Retardation of vegetation at low elevations -- Choongtam -- Landslips and debacle -- Meet Dr. Campbell -- Motives for his journey -- Second visit to Lachen valley -- Autumnal tints -- Red currants -- Lachen Phipun -- Tungu -- Scenery -- Animals -- Poisonous rhododendrons -- Fire-wood -- Palung -- Elevations -- Sitong -- Kongra Lama -- Tibetans -- Enter Tibet -- Desolate scenery -- Plants -- Animals -- Geology -- Cholamoo lakes -- Antelopes -- Return to Yeumtso -- Dr. Campbell lost -- Extreme cold -- Headaches -- Tibetan Dingpun and guard -- Arms and accoutrements -- Temperature of Yeumtso -- Migratory birds -- Visit of Dingpun -- Yeumtso lakes.

CHAPTER XXIV.

Ascent of Bhomtso -- View of snowy mountains -- Chumulari -- Arun river -- Kiang-lah mountains -- Jigatzi -- Lhassa -- Dingcham province of Tibet -- Misapplication of term "Plain of Tibet" -- Sheep, flocks of -- Crops -- Probable elevation of Jigatzi -- Yaru-Tsampu river -- Tame elephants -- Wild horses -- Dryness of air -- Sunset beams -- Rocks of Kinchinjhow -- Cholamoo lakes -- Limestone -- Dip and strike of rocks -- Effects of great elevation on party -- Ascent of Donkia -- Moving piles of debris -- Cross Donkia pass -- Second visit to Momay Samdong -- Hot springs -- Descent to Yeumtong -- Lachoong -- Retardation of vegetation again noticed -- Jerked meat -- Fish -- Lose a thermometer -- Lepcha lad sleeps in hot spring -- Keadom -- _Bucklandia_ -- Arrive at Choongtam -- Mendicant -- Meepo -- Lachen-Lachoong river -- Wild grape -- View from Singtam of Kinchinjunga -- Virulent nettle.

CHAPTER XXV.

Journey to the Rajah's residence at Tumloong -- Ryott valley -- Rajah's house -- Tupgain Lama -- Lagong nunnery -- Phadong Goompa -- Phenzong ditto -- Lepcha sepoys -- Proceedings at Tumloong -- Refused admittance to Rajah -- Women's dresses -- Meepo's and Tchebu Lama's families -- Chapel -- Leave for Chola pass -- Ryott river -- Rungpo, view from -- Deputation of Kajees, etc. -- Conference -- Laghep -- Eatable fruit of _Decaisnea -- Cathcartia_ -- Rhododendrons -- Phieung-goong -- Pines -- Rutto river -- Barfonchen -- Curling of rhododendron leaf -- Woodcock -- Chola pass -- Small lakes -- Tibet guard and sepoys -- Dingpun -- Arrival of Sikkim sepoys -- Their conduct -- Meet Singtam Soubah -- Chumanako -- We are seized by the Soubah's party -- Soubah's conduct -- Dingpun Tinli -- Treatment of Dr. Campbell -- Bound and guarded -- Separated from Campbell -- Marched to Tumloong -- Motives for such conduct -- Arrive at Rungpo -- At Phadong -- Presents from Rajah -- Visits of Lama -- Of Singtam Soubah -- I am cross-questioned by Amlah -- Confined with Campbell -- Seizure of my Coolies -- Threats of attacking Dorjiling.

CHAPTER XXVI.

Dr. Campbell is ordered to appear at Durbar -- Lamas called to council -- Threats -- Scarcity of food -- Arrival of Dewan -- Our jailer, Thoba-sing -- Temperature, etc., at Tumloong -- Services of Goompas -- Lepcha girl -- Jews'-harp -- Terror of servants -- Ilam-sing's family -- Interview with Dewan -- Remonstrances -- Dewan feigns sickness -- Lord Dalhousie's letter to Rajah -- Treatment of Indo-Chinese -- Concourse of Lamas -- Visit of Tchebu Lama -- Close confinement -- Dr. Campbell's illness -- Conference with Amlah -- Relaxation of confinement -- Pemiongchi Lama's intercession -- Escape of Nimbo -- Presents from Rajah, Ranee, and people -- Protestations of friendship -- Mr. Lushington sent to Dorjiling -- Leave Tumloong -- Cordial farewell -- Dewan's merchandize -- Gangtok Kajee -- Dewan's pomp -- Governor-General's letter -- Dikkeeling -- Suspicion of poison -- Dinner and pills -- Tobacco -- Bhotanese colony -- Katong-ghat on Teesta -- Wild lemons -- Sepoys' insolence -- Dewan alarmed -- View of Dorjiling -- Threats of a rescue -- Fears of our escape -- Tibet flutes -- Negotiate our release -- Arrival at


Himalayan Journals V2. - 1/94

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