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- Here, There And Everywhere - 1/40 -


HERE, THERE AND EVERYWHERE

BY

LORD FREDERIC HAMILTON

TO MY GALLANT CANADIAN FRIEND GERALD RUTHERFORD, M.C. OF WINNIPEG

FOREWORD

So kindly a reception have the public accorded to "The Days Before Yesterday" that I have ventured into print yet again.

This is less a book of reminiscences than a recapitulation of various personal experiences in many lands, some of which may be viewed from unaccustomed angles.

The descriptions in Chapter VIII of cattle-working and of horse-breaking on an Argentine estancia have already appeared in slightly different form in an earlier book of mine, now out of print.

F. H.

_London, 1921._

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

An ideal form of travel for the elderly--A claim to roam at will in print--An invitation to a big-game shoot--Details of journey to Cooch Behar--The commercial magnate and the station-master--An outbreak of cholera--Arrival at Cooch Behar Palace-Our Australian Jehu--The shooting camp--Its gigantic scale--The daily routine--"Chota Begum," my confidential elephant--Her well-meant attentions--My first tiger--Another lucky shot--The leopard and the orchestra--The Maharanee of Cooch Behar--An evening in the jungle--The buns and the bear--Jungle pictures--A charging rhinoceros--Another rhinoceros incident--The amateur Mahouts--Circumstances preventing a second visit to Cooch Behar

CHAPTER II

Mighty Kinchinjanga--The inconceivable splendours of a Himalayan sunrise--The last Indian telegraph office--The irrepressible British Tommy--An improvised garden--An improvised Durbar hall--A splendid ceremony--A native dinner--The disguised Europeans--Our shocking table-manners--Incidents--Two impersonations; one successful, the other the reverse--I come off badly--Indian jugglers--The rope-trick--The juggler, the rope, and the boy--An inexplicable incident--A performing cobra scores a success--Ceylon "Devil Dancers"--Their performance--The Temple of the Tooth--The uncovering of the Tooth--Details concerning--An abominable libel--Tea and coffee--Peradeniya Gardens--The upas tree of Java--Colombo an Eastern Clapham Junction--The French lady and the savages--The small Bermudian and the inhabitants of England

CHAPTER III

Frenchmen pleasant travelling companions--Their limitations--Vicomte de Vogue--The innkeeper and the ikon--An early oil-burning steamer--A modern Bluebeard--His "Blue Chamber"--Dupleix--His ambitious scheme --A disastrous period for France--A personal appreciation of the Emperor Nicholas II--A learned but versatile Orientalist--Pidgin English--Hong-Kong--An ancient Portuguese city in China--Duck junks--A comical Marathon race--Canton--Its fascination and its appalling smells--The malevolent Chinese devils--Precautions adopted against--"Foreign devils"--The fortunate limitations of Chinese devils--The City of the Dead--A business interview

CHAPTER IV

The glamour of the West Indies--Captain Marryat and Michael Scott--Deadly climate of the islands in the eighteenth century--The West Indian planters--Difference between East and West Indies--"Let us eat and drink, for to-morrow we die"--Training-school for British Navy--A fruitless voyage--Quarantine--Distant view of Barbados--Father Labat--The last of the Emperors of Byzantium--Delightful little Lady Nugent and her diary of 1802--Her impressions of Jamaica--Wealthy planters--Their hideous gormandising--A simple morning meal--An aldermanic dinner--How the little Nugents were gorged--Haiti--Attempts of General Le Clerc to secure British intervention in Haiti--Presents to Lady Nugent--Her Paris dresses described--Our arrival in Jamaica--Its marvellous beauty--The bewildered Guardsman--Little trace of Spain left in Jamaica--The Spaniards as builders--British and Spanish Colonial methods contrasted

CHAPTER V

An election meeting in Jamaica--Two family experiences at contested elections--Novel South African methods--Unattractive Kingston--A driving tour through the island--The Guardsman as orchid-hunter--Derelict country houses--An attempt to reconstruct the past--The Fourth-Form room at Harrow--Elizabethan Harrovians--I meet many friends of my youth--The "Sunday" books of the 'sixties--"Black and White"--Arrival of the French fleet--Its inner meaning--International courtesies--A delicate attention--Absent alligators--The mangrove swamp--A preposterous suggestion--The swamps do their work--Fever--A very gallant apprentice--What he did

CHAPTER VI

The Spanish Main--Its real meaning--A detestable region--Tarpon and sharks--The isthmus--The story of the great pearl "La elegrina"--The Irishman and the Peruvian--The vagaries of the Southern Cross--The great Kingston earthquake--Point of view of small boys--Some earthquake incidents--"Flesh-coloured" stockings--Negro hysteria--A family incident, and the unfortunate Archbishop--Port Royal--A sugar estate--A scene from a boy's book in real life--Cocoa-nuts-- Reef-fishing--Two young men of great promise

CHAPTER VII

Appalling ignorance of geography amongst English people--Novel pedagogic methods--"Happy Families"--An instructive game--Bermuda--A waterless island--A most inviting archipelago--Bermuda the most northern coral-atoll--The reefs and their polychrome fish--A "water-glass"--Sea-gardens--An ideal sailing-place--How the Guardsman won his race--A miniature Parliament--Unfounded aspersions on the Bermudians--Red and blue birds--Two pardonable mistakes--Soldier gardeners--Officers' wives--The little roaming home-makers--A pleasant island--The inquisitive German naval officers--"The Song of the Bermudians"

CHAPTER VIII

The demerits of the West Indies classified--The utter ruin of St. Pierre--The Empress Josephine--A transplanted brogue--Vampires--Lost in a virgin forest--Dictator-Presidents, Castro and Rosas--The mentality of a South American--"The Liberator"--The Basques and their national game--Love of English people for foreign words--Yellow fever--Life on an Argentina _estancia_--How cattle are worked--The lasso and the "bolas"--Ostriches--Venomous toads--The youthful rough-rider--His methods--Fuel difficulties--The vast plains--The wonderful bird-life

CHAPTER IX

Difficulties of an Argentine railway engineer--Why Argentina has the Irish gauge--A sudden contrast--A more violent contrast--Names and their obligations--Cape Town--The thoroughness of the Dutch pioneers--A dry and thirsty land--The beautiful Dutch Colonial houses --The Huguenot refugees--The Rhodes fruit-farms--Surf-riding--Groote Schuur--General Botha--The Rhodes Memorial--The episode of the sick boy--A visit from Father Neptune--What pluck will do

CHAPTER X

In France at the outbreak of the war--The _tocsin_--The "voice of the bell" at Harrow--Canon Simpson's theory about bells--His "five-tone" principle--Myself as a London policeman--Experiences with a celebrated Church choir--The "Grill-room Club"--Famous members --Arthur Cecil--Some neat answers--Sir Leslie Ward--Beerbohm Tree and the vain old member--Amateur supers--Juvenile disillusionment--The Knight--The Baron--Age of romance passed

CHAPTER XI

Dislike of the elderly to change--Some legitimate grounds of complaint--Modern pronunciation of Latin--How a European crisis was averted by the old-fashioned method--Lord Dufferin's Latin speech--Schoolboy costume of a hundred years ago--Discomforts of travel in my youth--A crack liner of the 'eighties--Old travelling carriages--An election incident--Headlong rush of extraordinary turn-out--The politically-minded signalman and the doubtful voter--"Decent bodies"--Confidence in the future--Conclusion

INDEX

HERE, THERE AND EVERYWHERE

CHAPTER I

An ideal form of travel for the elderly--A claim to roam at will in print--An invitation to a big-game shoot--Details of journey to Cooch Behar--The commercial magnate and the station-master--An outbreak of cholera--Arrival at Cooch Behar Palace--Our Australian Jehu--The Shooting Camp--Its gigantic scale--The daily routine--"Chota Begum," my confidential elephant--Her well-meant attentions--My first tiger--Another lucky shot--The leopard and the orchestra--The Maharanee of Cooch Behar--An evening in the jungle--The buns and the bear--Jungle pictures--A charging rhinoceros--Another rhinoceros incident--The amateur mahouts--Circumstances preventing a second visit to Cooch Behar.

The drawbacks of advancing years are so painfully obvious to those who


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